When they say the Camino, which translates as road, it's really not what you think. Steep inclines and descents over rock-strewn paths and uneven cobblestones from long ago have you bracing as one flies over some dangerous and difficult terrain. My bike became my best friend today, and the two of us had the adventure of a lifetime. Those of you who are avid bicyclists will understand this best - it's as though you are part of everything....the wind, the trees, the rocks, the sky and every creature you pass by. Yep, beginning to think I'm breaking out of my fears of riding. Didn't think I'd ride again after my accident. Grateful. Really.
Finished a monster of a climb yesterday from Villafranca del Bierzo to O'Cebreiro with a broken shifter but oh my god, how exquisite! I love the greeting we Peregrinos shout out to each other, "BUEN CAMINO!", meaning good/sacred journey. Doing this by foot or bike isn't easy but so worth it. The churches and views are amazing and locals very kind-hearted. After my climb, and visiting the church of Santa Maria where many miracles have taken place with the holy chalice, I rode down to Triacastelo. Having lost my riding partner, I checked into an Albergue, into a room with 13 other pilgrims and one bathroom. At only $10/night, it is the choice of many pilgrims and surprisingly pleasant. My bunk mate, an older Italian man who owns a brewery, ended up having dinner with me at a sweet little cafe around the corner. Funny, even though we didn't speak the same language, we managed to laugh and chatter the whole time with me warning him I would throw a zapato at him if he snored. And yes, he did but only a little and no, I did not throw a shoe.
First day cycling...Ponferrada to Villafrance del Bierzo which SHOULD have been 14 miles but after a few wrong turns, it ended up being more like 18. But all good and riding through the countryside was unbelievably beautiful. The locals treat the peregrino's (pilgrims) with such love, it makes one feel the essence of what the Camino is about. Interestingly, nobody is to be seen during siesta time. Businesses are only allowed to be open 90 hours a week so everyone shuts down from around 3:00-7:00. The flip side of that is that they stay up until after midnight. Even the old folks are out!
This was in my room from last night and also "just happens" to be on my bracelet I've been wearing from the start. I asked our beautiful host about it and she said it means energy. Good thing...I'm going to need it for today's climb. Started in Santiago with breakfast, took a beautiful train ride through the Spanish countryside and arrived in Ponferrada to collect our pilgrim passports and put our bikes together. This is where the Templar's Castle is and the start of the 200 km Camino passage.
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AuthorTherese Hartmann Archives
October 2015
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