Finished a monster of a climb yesterday from Villafranca del Bierzo to O'Cebreiro with a broken shifter but oh my god, how exquisite! I love the greeting we Peregrinos shout out to each other, "BUEN CAMINO!", meaning good/sacred journey. Doing this by foot or bike isn't easy but so worth it. The churches and views are amazing and locals very kind-hearted. After my climb, and visiting the church of Santa Maria where many miracles have taken place with the holy chalice, I rode down to Triacastelo. Having lost my riding partner, I checked into an Albergue, into a room with 13 other pilgrims and one bathroom. At only $10/night, it is the choice of many pilgrims and surprisingly pleasant. My bunk mate, an older Italian man who owns a brewery, ended up having dinner with me at a sweet little cafe around the corner. Funny, even though we didn't speak the same language, we managed to laugh and chatter the whole time with me warning him I would throw a zapato at him if he snored. And yes, he did but only a little and no, I did not throw a shoe.